The Saints of Umbria

There is a sense I get about Umbria. Well, more than a sense, a spirituality. Yes, a sense of spirituality that manifests itself in a quiet way. Let’s call it a ‘gentle spirituality.’ Yes, that’s it. It’s not to be found in the trappings of the industry St. Francis has become, or even in the beautifully adorned basilica of his name. (I often wonder what Francis would have thought about all of that.) But here, looking out over the valley seeing what he saw, or walking the hillsides and forests where he walked, here, unmistakably, his gentle spirituality can be found.

Italians are a practical sort and I’m never sure how much is faith and how much tradition or whether one can distinguish between the two. But either way, St Francis is both a part of our culture here. Whether you believe the fables of his talking with the animals or the stories of his retreats in the wild, he is, at the heart of it, the soul of Umbria.

If there is one thing you must see before you leave Umbria it is the Basilica of San Francesco. It is spectacular in everyway and has always been so. Even if it is disputed that Giotto actually painted the great fresco cycle in the upper church, it is an extraordinary artistic achievement and stellar in every way. As too are the frescos of the lower church. In fact more so because they are less known. The frescos of Simone Martini and Pietro Lorenzetti are some of the most exquisite paintings I have ever seen. Even the greatly deteriorated frescos of Cimabue retain the essence of the monumental spirituality they dipict. You must come and spend some time with all of them.

But to me, the place I find St Francis to be the most accessible is at the Church of San Damiano. Just outside the walls of Assisi you will find the church that called to Francis. It is here the young man heard the Byzantine crucifix speak. God told Francis to “Rebuild My church,” and he dutifully began restoring the building completely missing that God was asking him to restore the entire Church. Eventually he realized his larger mission and the course was set for his complete conversion, as well as the Church’s.

Here, within the rustic walls that Francis knew well, and away from the larger-than-life depictions of him, the simple friar’s gentle spirituality is glimpsed. In silence you may wander the church and take in the simpler life of the real Francis. It is here that you will also find the spirit of St Clare. And here too where she died.

Sitting in the courtyard at San Damiano, or looking from its vantage point over the valley, one finds the essence of the Saint and a place to reflect on his greatest prayer.

Prayer of Saint Francis

Lord, make me an instrument of thy peace.
Where there is hatred, let me sow love:
Where there is injury, pardon;
Where there is doubt, faith:
Where there is despair, hope;
Where there is darkness, light;
Where there is sadness, joy.

O divine Master, grant that I many not so much seek
To be consoled as to console,
To be understood as to understand,
To be loved as to love;
For it is in giving that we receive;
It is in pardoning that we are pardoned;
It is dying to self that we are born to eternal life.

I hope that you might be interested in exploring the region that St. Francis called home. A tour of St. Francis’ Umbria is available at aWeekinUmbria.com.

— Michael LaPlaca